Concrete is dense, abrasive and full of hard aggregate that destroys metal-cutting bits in moments. The best drill bits for concrete are carbide-tipped masonry bits driven by a hammer drill or rotary hammer. Here is what to look for, how to match the bit to your drill, and how to bore clean anchor holes.
What to Look For
Masonry bits do not shave a chip the way twist bits do — they pulverise the material with a hammering action while the flutes carry the dust up and out. That is why the tip is a brazed carbide head, hard enough to survive repeated pounding against stone aggregate. Match the bit to your drill: a standard hammer drill uses round or hex-shank masonry bits, while heavier and deeper work calls for an SDS or SDS-Plus rotary hammer that grips a splined shank and hits far harder. Whatever the size, the carbide tip and a genuine hammer action are non-negotiable for concrete.
The Best Type of Bit for Concrete
Choose a carbide-tipped masonry bit rated for hammer drilling, sized to your anchor. The carbide head withstands the constant impact against aggregate, and the wide, deep flutes evacuate dust so the tip keeps biting instead of packing and stalling.
- Tip: Brazed carbide head — the only tip that survives concrete aggregate.
- Action: Use hammer or rotary-hammer mode, never plain rotation.
- Flutes: Deep flutes clear dust so the bit does not bind or overheat.
- Sizing: Match the bit to your anchor for a snug, load-bearing hold.
Technique and Mistakes to Avoid
Let the hammer do the work — use moderate, steady pressure and pull the bit out often to clear packed dust, which is the main reason bits stall and burn. Start slow to seat the tip so it does not skate off your mark, then settle into a rhythm. If you hit rebar, stop and reposition or switch to a rebar-cutting bit; ordinary masonry bits are not made to cut steel and will burn instantly against it. Do not lean hard on a dull tip — if progress stops, the carbide is worn, not the concrete winning. Our USA-made masonry bits are built to pound through concrete reliably, hole after hole.
Sizing for Anchors
Anchor holes must match the fastener exactly, so let the anchor decide the bit. A wedge or sleeve anchor is drilled to the same nominal diameter as the anchor body, while a plastic plug needs the size printed on the pack. Drill the hole slightly deeper than the anchor is long so debris at the bottom does not stop it seating flush. Vacuum or blow the dust out before setting the anchor, since a dust-packed hole badly weakens the hold. Keep a range of masonry sizes on hand to match whatever anchor the job calls for.